Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts

New Year's Eve In Stockholm 2018

Let us take a little break from Christmas and concentrate on New Year's Eve. It is just around the corner! If you are visiting the city during this holiday, then I hope you have started figuring out your New Year's Eve plans because some restaurants are starting to fill up already. This is not an evening when you want to "wing it" when it comes to dining & dancing! Here are some things you should be aware of when making your plans.
  • Restaurants- Quite a few restaurants are closed on the 31st. The ones that are open generally serve a traditional multiple course menu called nyårssupé and nothing else. It can be anywhere between 3 and 9 courses and cost anywhere between 500 and 1200 SEK, depending on the restaurant. This means that going out for a simple dinner or quick bite will probably be problematic unless you are looking at pubs or fast food establishments. These nyårssupé dinners are popular and the restaurants tend to fill up, so don't leave it to the last minute! Most of these restaurants have two seatings during the evening... an early (5-8:30pm) and a late (8:30pm-12am). There are actually a select few restaurants that serve a regular sajian and it seems that there are more of these every year. If you are staying at the Hotel Rival, contact us as soon as possible for help in making arrangements! Every year we have guests that stop by around the Concierge desk at 7pm on New Year's Eve looking for help in making restaurant reservations and are surprised that almost every restaurant is fully booked. Don't make the same mistake! Our Bistro is open and we will be serving our popular seafood smorgasbord with two seatings. If you are staying at the hotel, you need to book this in advance as we have limited seating! Click here if you wish to book the hotel package with dinner. 
  • Nightclubs- Here it is important to plan ahead as well. Tickets to the parties at the nightclubs can be pre-purchased in advance. If you don't pre-purchase a ticket, you can end up standing in long lines in subzero temperatures! Here are some of the larger nightclub parties this year as well as a few restaurants: Stureplansgruppen (an umbrella group that runs several nightclubs), Café Opera and Södra Teatern. These are the more posh nightclub venues... there are, of course, many smaller parties going on at different venues. Click here for a list and more information about gay & lesbian parties on New Year's Eve.
  • Taxis- These are notoriously hard to catch on New Year's Eve... especially after 11pm. This is because of the huge demand. Most taxi companies don't accept prebookings because they don't want their cars tied up waiting for people who don't show up. There is also the option of Uber here in Stockholm. You don't have to worry about being stranded though... the subways will be running all night long. If nighttime subways aren't your thing, just make sure that you are within walking distance of your hotel. Stockholm isn't that big so this isn't that hard to accomplish. And remember... be careful when catching taxis in Sweden!
  • Fireworks- Locals will be setting off their own fireworks throughout the city, especially at midnight in the parks & squares. The official fireworks will be shot off above the harbor (eastern side of Gamla Stan). The best places to see the fireworks are along the waterfront, by the City Hall, on Fjällgatan or Monteliusvägen. Some places will be quite crowded but you will still be able to see the fireworks! These afrementioned places are all within a 5-20 minute walk from the Hotel Rival. 
  • Skansen- Once again, this is the center of Swedish holiday tradition. This is the countdown spectacle that is televised and shown around all of Sweden on TV... kind of like the Swedish version of the ball dropping at Times Square. There will be music and speeches and, of course, the official countdown. Skansen is also a great place to see the official fireworks! To be honest, I'm not sure how much someone who doesn't speak Swedish will get out of the event as most of the jadwal is in Swedish... but it is an option. The jadwal starts at 11:10pm and ends at 00:10am. Be aware that it is outdoors (see below)! 
  • Weather- Remember that it is winter in Sweden. Temperatures can vary between 5 and -10 degrees Celsius (41 and 14 degrees Fahrenheit) around this time. There might be snow or not. Dress accordingly when you are out. You can always keep your eye on the weather site a couple of days ahead of your arrival to get a better idea of what the weather will be like. 
The Hotel Rival- our Bistro, as I mentioned, is open. If you have dinner plans somewhere else, stop by before or after for a drink. The bars will be open until 2am. There will be a DJ playing and the square in front of the hotel is a popular place for the locals to light their fireworks. I am sure the DJ will play this song at some point during the evening... 

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Stureplan District

Stureplan square with the famous "svampen".
Aaaah... Stureplan. It is a name that has almost taken on a mythical status in Sweden, sometimes with a positive connotation (exclusive fashion) and other times negative (partying kids at nightclubs). In truth, Stureplan is just a small square where the streets Biblioteksgatan, Kungsgatan, Sturegatan and Birger Jarlsgatan all coverge. There is nothing really special about the square itself either, though the architecture of some of the buildings is beautiful. However, just about everyone in Sweden, young and old, have heard of Stureplan. Why? It is basically because of its location and the businesses found on the square and in the surrounding area.
Stureplan is located just in-between the downtown commercial district (Norrmalm) and the fashionable, old-money neighborhood of Östermalm. For Stockholmers, this is quite central and Stureplan has become a place where we often meet up with each other. Especially the flat mushroom shaped structure in the middle of the square called "Svampen" in local slang (it literally means the mushroom), so you often hear locals say "meet you under the mushroom".
During the daytime, Stureplan is a high-end shopping and business district. It is mostly (though not only) upscale shops that are found here, including several of the international fashion houses. You also have the smaller shopping center Sturegallerian right on Stureplan as well as the fashion district of Bibliotekstan with concentrated shopping opportunities. And just 2-3 blocks from Stureplan, you will find the department store NK and the Mood Stockholm shopping center. If shopping tires you out, you can always stop at the exclusive Sturebadet spa inside Sturegalleriet to pamper yourself.
Shopping street Biblioteksgatan
As day turns into evening, Stureplan takes on another form as the center of Stockholm nightlife. The square and surrounding streets are filled with restaurants, bars, movie theaters and (later in the evening) nightclubs. Here you will find favorite restaurants like Sturehof, Riche, East, Taverna Brillo, Eataly, Nosh & Chow and many more. But it is the nightclubs that are synonymous with Stureplan for many Swedes. Around 75% of Stockholm's nightclubs are located around Stureplan. Places like Spy Bar, Sturecompagniet, Berns, Rose and Hell's Kitchen are located in the neighborhood.
Berns
Photo from MyNewsdesk
Most of these places are under the same umbrella organization, Stureplansgruppen (the Stureplan Group) along with several restaurants. Swedish tabloids are always filled with stories of celebrities and royals behaving badly in Stureplan nightclubs which has given the name a slightly negative association with some Swedes. But they are generally all good nightclubs of the high-end variety and worth a visit if you are in the mood for some nightlife! It is also nice to have them all located in the same vicinity, keeping travel time down if you want to visit several.
Star club at Berns
Photo from MyNewsdesk
Stureplan is easy to get to from the Hotel Rival... whether you are going for shopping, dinner or clubbing. You can either take the subway (red line) four stations to Östermalmstorg (exit Stureplan) or else it is a 7-8 minute taxi/Uber ride.

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Stockholm Restaurants In The Michelin Guide 2019

Press image from Michelin
The 2019 Michelin Guide for restaurants in the Nordic countries was recently announced. It was a mixed bag for Stockholm restaurants with both surprising good news and expected bad news. Good news first... Gastrologik finally received their second star. Congratulations! Gastrologik has had one star for six years so they were very happy to be awarded a second star and it was well deserved. Unfortunately, chef Sayan Isaksson closed both of his one star restaurants this year (Esperanto and Imouto) so Stockholm lost two restaurants from the list. Here is the full list for 2019...

3 stars ("exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey")
2 stars ("excellent cooking, worth a detour")
Gastrologik interior (press image)

1 star ("a very good restaurant in its category")
Bib Gourmand (no star, but "exceptional good food at moderate prices")
Sunflower seeds with the freshest trout roe you can find
@ Gastrologik (press image)
Please keep in mind that the Michelin star restaurants usually need to be booked a few weeks in advance and often guaranteed with a credit card. If I had a dollar for every guest who has come to me on a Friday late afternoon and asked me for help in booking a table at a star restaurant for the same evening (only to be disappointed), I would be a rich man! If you are staying at the great restaurants in the city as well as other excellent guides. 

  

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Italian Restaurant La Bocca

I was lucky enough to be invited to dinner this past weekend, along with the board of Les Clefs d'Or Sweden, at the Italian restaurant Stureplan.
Antipasto misto
The restaurant manager Claudio showed us around the restaurant when we arrived. He has a long history in the Stockholm restaurant and nightlife world, so it was fascinating to listen to his stories. Besides the restaurant itself, they have an impressive wine cellar, filled with Italian wines, as well as a chambre separée which can be booked for private dinners. The restaurant is split between a beautiful dining room and a more casual kafe area, which is great if you just want to drop in for a drink and a bite to eat.
The chambre separée
They only use the freshest, seasonal ingredients available, with classic recipes. They don't concentrate on any specific region. Instead, you will find dishes from Sicily to Naples to Tuscany. Our group started with a great Antipasto misto, filled with delicious sausages and cheeses. For the main course, we had a choice of Tagliatelle al tartufo or Spaghetti alle vongole. We finished with a lemon sorbet. The whole dinner was delicious.
Tagliatelle al tartufo
The easiest way to get to La Bocca from Click here for more restaurant reviews and recommendations. Or, if you are staying at the Hotel Rival, contact me directly for more assistance.
More casual kafe area with...
...a touch of Dolce Vita. 

  

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White Guide 2019- Stockholm's Best Restaurants

Cover of the new White Guide (press image)
This is the time of the year when all of the restaurant guides come out. I have already written about Gulddraken and Michelin Guide, now it is time for the White Guide. This is a Swedish guide that tests around 700 restaurants all over Sweden each year. They hand out several individual awards, like "best newcomer" and "best service", but they also have a list where the best restaurants are ranked. As it is all in Swedish, I thought I would report on how the restaurants located in Stockholm fared this year. It is fun also to compare the guides. You can check all the awards here and the full ranking list here. Here are the Stockholm restaurants who nabbed an award and made the list:

Best Restaurant (restaurant culture)- Frantzén (also Sweden's only three star restaurant in the Michelin Guide)
Best Newcomer- Etoile
Best Service Experience- Frantzén

Press image from restaurant Frantzén.
Ranking (number in paranthesis is their ranking on the list of all restaurants in Sweden):

Global Masterclass
Masterclass
At Fotografiska
Curious which restaurant is ranked best in Sweden? Click here for more restaurant guides. If you are staying at the Hotel Rival and need any help making reservations or want more recommendation and/or advice, contact me directly. 


  

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Restaurant Kvarnen

Yesterday I was invited, along with my colleagues at Les Clefs d'Or Sweden, to a dinner at the historic restaurant Kvarnen. The restaurant is located just a stone's throw from the square Medborgarplatsen on Södermalm... just about a 10-12 minute walk from Hotel Rival. Otherwise, the closest subway station is Medborgarplatsen (green line). The restaurant is steeped in history and is a great place to try traditional Swedish cuisine and feel some authentic "Söder" ambiance.
Part of main dining room.
Kvarnen means "the mill" in Swedish and the restaurant's name (originally Gråkvarn- "grey mill") was inspired by a mill which stood nearby until 1863. Södermalm is the largest of the 14 islands which make up Stockholm and, up until modern times, Södermalm was known as the working class district of the city. Gentrification during the last century turned the area into a more trendy, bohemian neighborhood... popular with artists and hipsters. Opened in 1908, the restaurant has kept to the working class history of the area with its beer hall atmosphere and hearty cuisine.
Bakfickan
Kvarnen has lovingly kept the historical details of the interior and it looks much like it did back over a hundred years ago. The main dining room features features beautiful high windows, black & white checkered tiled floor and lots of interesting details and artwork. In the back, behind the main dining room, they have a great, rustic kafetaria ("bakfickan") with Swedish and Czech microbreweries on tap. Kvarnen also has a chambre separée downstairs for private dining and events (up to 25 persons). 
4 types of herring
As I mentioned, Kvarnen serves traditional Swedish cuisine. About half of the sajian is filled with traditional dishes and the other half is more modern dishes using seasonal Swedish ingredients. We were served 4 types of pickled herring for our starter and Swedish meatballs for the main course... all washed down with Swedish beer and traditional snaps. Hearty and delicious! Other classic dishes on their sajian include fried herring, toast skagen, renskav (reindeer stew), grilled trout and cured salmon. Click here to find more restaurants in Stockholm which serve traditional Swedish cuisine and click here for other restaurant recommendations. 
Swedish meatballs.
A few interesting bits of trivia... Kvarnen attracts readers/fans of the Millenium book & film series as it is mentioned a few times as being the character Lisbeth Salander's favorite restaurant and bar. Another guest demographic is the fans of the local football club Hammarby and they can often be found here before and after matches, dressed in green & white. Finally, Kvarnen shares a history with another historic restaurant, Källaren Hamburg, which was once located close by (Kvarnen took over their liquor license when Hamburg closed in 1908). Källaren Hamburg was around as far back as the 1640's and was where criminals, sentenced to death, were infamously allowed one last shot of snaps as they were taken to the gallows nearby. 





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Restaurant At Fotografiska

In my last article, I wrote about the new "Truth is Dead" exhibition at the museum White Guide.
Open kitchen
It is important to note that Fotografiska goes all out in incorporating the restaurant with the museum so that the museum has extended opening hours to coincide with the restaurant's hours... closing at 11pm on Sundays through Wednesdays and 1am on Thursdays through Saturdays. This means you can easily combine a visit to the exhibitions with dinner and/or drinks. Feels very civilized. The restaurant is located on the top floor of the museum, with great views of the harbor, so maybe take in one exhibition on the way to dinner and another on the way home?
First course
The philosophy of the restaurant is sustainable dining with a major focus on fruits and vegetables, using only the freshest seasonable, organic products. They turn the tables on the traditional sajian concept where vegetables come as side dishes. At Fotografiska, you choose (if you wish) meat/fish as a side dish. When we dined there last week, both my friend and I did choose meat as a side dish though felt, in the end, that it really wasn't necessary. We would have been easily satisfied if we had just stuck to the plant based dishes. However, it is always good with the option for our dedicated carnivores out there!
Second course
There are set three, five and eight course menus to choose from or else you can choose dishes from an a la carte sajian and mix and match the dishes as you desire. My friend and I did end up choosing the set three-course dinner, adding a meat dish each. The first course was potatoes prepared three ways with smoked sour cream, burnt butter and bleak roe. The second course was long-baked beetroot with potato puré and kuman and, finally, for dessert we were served "last season's" berries with emmer wheat, salted caramel and goat milk sherbet. The whole meal was delicious, beautifully presented and creatively interesting.
Dessert
During the daytime, there is a great café adjacent to the restaurant, which is perfect for lunch or just a coffee and snack. They also serve a very popular brunch on the weekends! Speaking of popular... booking a table in advance for dinner is highly recommended, as they are generally fully booked most evenings. You can book your table on their website and you can also choose the option of booking a visit to the exhibitions (at a discounted price) along with your table. Fotografiska is located on the northern waterfront of Södermalm, just a 15-20 minute walk from the Hotel Rival. They are doing some major construction in the Slussen area, but just follow the signs to get to Fotografiska. The closest subway/bus station is Slussen (10 minute walk from the museum).
Watching the ferries glide by on their way out to the Baltic
Click here for other restaurant recommendations and click here for other vegetarian restaurants in Stockholm.




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Restaurant Kryp In Södermalm

For many years, one of my favorite restaurants to send hotel guests to has been Kryp In in the old town (Gamla Stan). Great Swedish cuisine, cozy ambiance and personable service. So we were really happy when they opened a second restaurant, called Kryp In Södermalm, just two blocks from the hotel. Location. "Södermalm" is the name of the area/island where the restaurant and hotel are both found. Same great food, ambiance and service... now just a five minute walk from the Hotel Rival.
My cousin from southern Sweden was visiting me last weekend so I took her to Kryp In Södermalm for dinner on Saturday after I got off from work. The restaurant is not large, with seating for around 26 persons as well as a few seats at a food bar. The size and the dark woods in the interior gives the restaurant a real nice cozy feeling.
The sajian contains many of the same dishes, or variations of the same dishes, as are found on the sajian of their sister restaurant in Gamla Stan. This makes me happy as I am a fan of that menu... seasonal Swedish ingredients mixed with a few continental cuisine dishes.
My cousin and I love oysters, so we started with a three each, served with a shallot vinaigrette. For the main course, I took a seasonal favorite... grilled white asparagus served with bearnaise sauce and bleak roe while my cousin took the classic seafood stew with aioli. Everything was delicious and the service was friendly and attentive! Unfortunately, we didn't take any dessert as we were going to the photography museum Fotografiska afterwards.
You can book a table on Click here for other restaurant recommendations.

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Summer Pedestrian Streets 2019

Dryck wine kafe on the left
For several summers in a row now, the city of Stockholm turns certain streets into pedestrian streets during the summer months. They are pretty evenly distributed around the city and each year they add a couple of more streets and squares. This is a great idea as restaurants and bars on the streets can put out larger outdoor seating areas, letting people take advantage of the long summer evenings. It makes the neighborhoods more alive. In fact, the project is called "Levande Stockholm" which means an alive Stockholm or a vibrant Stockholm.
The pub Half Way Inn
Luckily for the Hotel Rival, one of these streets, Swedenborgsgatan, is literally around the corner from the hotel. Here you will find a wide range of restaurants, bars and cafés, including...

A great street to stroll down, soak up the local life and grab a bite to eat or drink. It gets dark quite late during the summer months in Sweden (if at all), so Swedes love being outside as late as they can.
The restauramnt Morfar Ginko
As I mentioned, there are several summer pedestrian streets spread throughout the city. The other streets in central Stockholm are: Rörstrandsgatan, Skånegatan, Nybrogatan, Norra Agnegatan, Norrtullsgatan, Hornsbergs Strand, Gamla Brogatan, Strömgatan and Drottninggatan. Click on the name to get a map showing the street's location. Drottninggatan is actually a pedestrian street year-round, but they have pimped out the northern portion of the street this year to make it more summery. 
Bistro Süd
The pictures in this article were taken at around 6:30-7:00pm to give you an idea of how light and sunny the evenings are.


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